San Blas (Guna Yala): a guide to visiting the archipelago

San Blas — Guna Yala, to give it its proper name — is an archipelago of more than 350 islands in the Panamanian Caribbean. Only about fifty are inhabited and many are so small you can walk around them in two minutes: just white sand, a few coconut palms and turquoise water all around.

What sets San Blas apart from other Caribbean paradises is that it is autonomous territory of the Guna people, who have governed it under their own rules since 1925. There are no resorts and no high-rise buildings, and that has preserved the place in a way that is rare in the region.

How to get there

From Panama City it is about two and a half hours by road to the port of Cartí, crossing the Comarca on a mountain route. The journey requires a 4x4: the road is narrow, with steep gradients and tight bends. From the port you continue by boat to the islands.

Departure is at dawn, around five in the morning. It sounds early, but there is a reason: the sea is calmer in the morning and it makes the most of a full day on the islands.

What you do in a day

• Sail between several islands of the archipelago by boat.
• Swim and snorkel in water with exceptional visibility.
• Visit the Natural Pool, a sandbank in the middle of the sea where you can see starfish.
• Have a lunch of fresh fish prepared by the community.
• Learn about Guna culture and their molas, the textile craft the women sew by hand.

When to go

The dry season, December to April, offers the calmest sea and clear skies. Between May and November there is more rain, though usually short afternoon downpours; in exchange there are fewer people and the landscape is greener. The sea can get choppy at any time of year: if you are prone to seasickness, take precautions before boarding.

What to bring

• Original ID document: it is requested on entering the Comarca.
• Cash in small notes: there are no ATMs and cards are not accepted.
• Sunscreen and insect repellent.
• A change of clothes in a waterproof bag.
• Water and a snack for the journey.
• Towel, sandals and a cap.

Important: entry taxes are payable in Guna Yala, and permission is asked before photographing people. It is their territory and their rules.

Is the early start worth it?

It is a long day — about fourteen hours door to door — and the journey is not comfortable. That said, almost nobody regrets it: you rarely see a sea that colour. If you have more days, spending a night on the islands changes the experience entirely, because sunrise there is like nothing else.